In an effort to avoid the buffets I am always asking guides and drivers to take us to local restaurants. No buses, no tourists… no English! Ordering is a challenge as the menus are in Uzbek and Russian. Uzbekistan is one of only two land locked countries in the world completely surrounded by other land locked countries… there is no fish to be had. We are eating a lot of pretty chewy lamb and beef and some amazingly flavorful chicken. The tomatoes are too die for, and we eat them breakfast, lunch and dinner.
Uzbekistan generally tops lists as having one of the world’s most corrupt regimes. Turns out corruption has its benefits. For a shockingly small payment we have been able to climb up two ancient minarets that are officially closed to the public (one 12th c, and one 14th c). 140 well used, cracked and uneven steps up and again down, lit only by small holes in the metre thick walls. All three boys ran up like mountain goats. I clung to the walls, stepping carefully and took forever… listening to the echo of the boys asking John “do we really have to wait for Mom!” The views have been phenomenal, looking down into the mosques and medressas and across the stunning countryside. I have been fooling myself that yoga and walking are keeping me fit, must get on a stair master. My legs are killing me!
While I grew up thinking of the USSR as the enemy, and Stalin as the worst of the worst, he spent a fortune restoring this country and all its jewels. Uzbekistan did not choose independence but had it given to them in 1991 by Gorbachev, whom they hate. When the Russians left so did most people’s pensions, healthcare and schools. Sadly, the people in charge didn’t really change. The current president has held the post for 20 years and before that he was a senior minister in the old government. Although he is “elected” the elections have been labeled completely unfair by every outside organization. Dissent is ruthlessly suppressed.
Even more wonderful that the sites, I am enjoying our long drives between places. It is here that you get a feel for the real people. It is harvest season, and universities and religious schools have been closed so all students can join in cotton picking. There are hectares and hectares of cotton fields. The Soviets planted them, but cotton needs too much water for this desert climate. There are huge environment costs and water is getting increasingly scarce. Cultivation methods are quite primitive and the rural areas very poor. People picking, donkeys carting and the occasional overloaded tractors. We wave back and forth with the farmers and everyone shares wonderful smiles!
Our last three days have been spent trekking through the mountains. Much more challenging than we imagined and finally, well off the beaten track. We were not prepared for the weather, nights down around 0 degrees and days up in the high 20s… (Celsius!). We brought neither jackets nor sunscreen. The mountains reminded me of New Mexico and are breathtaking in their austerity. The boys were in their element and showed such enthusiasm for putting up tents, gathering wood, building huge fires and even leading the donkeys that helped carry some of our gear. Delightful to see they could have fun with out electronics.
Can’t tell you how much I am looking forward to sleeping in a soviet era bed tonight, hard and lumpy as it is. It is a sheer heaven after tossing and turning in the freezing cold trying to get comfortable on the very solid ground.
Back to Beijing tomorrow on the red eye!
(The other country that is landlocked, surrounded by landlocked countries is Lichtenstein!)