budapest

end of the road: things i learned

Hunter and I visited 12 countries in 16 days before landing in France to celebrate his birthday. The trip was, at varying times, grueling, exhausting and exhilarating. It was completely different from anything I had done before. It was also…

in the footsteps of tsars

Hunter couldn't wait to get to St Petersburg. He has been studying Russian history and had long dreamt of walking in footsteps of the Tsars. I'm worried I may have ruined him. He fell madly in love. Not surprisingly. The…

a whole new degas

One very nice thing about having a culture vulture sister-in-law living in New York City is that she is a member of almost every museum; we get to take advantage of her benefits. Among her best perks is the early…

stairmaster by the sea

Ah Valparaiso, quaint little fishing village by the sea. Or so I thought when I booked it. I don’t know how I could have been so wrong. I really need to start paying more attention to the guidebooks. We drove…

the last leg

The actual physical border between Argentina and Chile is in the middle of Christ the Redeemer tunnel. The tunnel is 3km long. When it was built in 1980 it shortened the drive by 10 km, lowered the elevation by 600…

paso los libertadores

We left Mendoza at a civilized 10 am for our 421 k drive. According to Google maps it should take about 5 ½ hours. I called Bart, our airbnb host in Valparaiso and told him we’d be arriving around 4.…