paso los libertadores

We left Mendoza at a civilized 10 am for our 421 k drive. According to Google maps it should take about 5 ½ hours. I called Bart, our airbnb host in Valparaiso and told him we’d be arriving around 4.…

along the inca trail

You miss a couple flights and suddenly your family doesn’t want to fly with you. So instead, we drove from Mendoza to Valparaiso. 9 hours along the Pan American highway. Luckily it is one of the most beautiful stretches of…

francis mallmann’s 1884

The minute we mentioned we were going to Argentina people immediately responded, “You’ll have to go to Francis Mallmann’s restaurant.” Even before he appeared on Netflix’s Top Chef he was probably the region’s best-known chef. He has four restaurants in…

iguazu falls

Every guide and every book says you must visit the falls. They also say it as overpriced a touristy destination as you will find. This time they were right. Iguazu falls are beyond touristy, horrible value for your money and…

palermo soho

Nobody loves a hotel more than I do and nothing makes me happier than being greeted with a “welcome home Mrs. Vogel” from one of my favorite establishments. But lately I’ve been coming around to the whole airbnb/VRBO thing. It…

moo….

I have eaten more beef in the last four weeks than in the last four years… But, when in Rome. Or actually when in Argentina. Everyone in this country seems to eat beef. About 135 pounds a year. Each. “If…

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